Once we left Campbell River, our next stop was finding the Little Huson Caves Regional Park. These limestone caves and arches straddle a river with crystal blue water, and during August and September the water is at its lowest and warmest, making these caves easier to explore.
Any directions I looked up in advance were a little vague, and the gravel roads don’t really show up on Google maps, so finding it seemed like a bit of a gamble. The best directions I came across advised to take the Zeballos exit off of 19N and “follow the signs,” which sounded suspect. It turned out, though, that the park was very well marked, with a directional sign at every intersection along the gravel road. We were in a little car, and it took longer than the 20 suggested minutes to navigate the potholes with care.
Though well marked, this park is still quite remote. Over Labour Day weekend, during “peak season,” we were one of just three vehicles in the lot. From the parking area, we headed off into the forest on the trail, which lead rapidly downhill to several sets of bridges and wooden staircases – which have seen better days. We were easily able to swing across a couple of missing stairs, though, and quickly found ourselves in one of the most magical places I’ve ever seen.
It’s difficult to describe or photograph a place like this, but we were dwarfed by the landscape. Despite the dry season, the current seemed a little swift and deep for wading, so we kept to the safety of the shore. Even without closer examination, the sight was spectacular. From both ends of the rocky river bank, there are caves where the water has cut through the rock and worn away large caverns on its way to the other side.
The creek itself is at the bottom of Atluck Creek Canyon, with high banks covered in tall trees and the dripping verdant mosses and ferns that make up most of the forests on the island. Wherever water pooled, it built up a bright turquoise colour that made the whole place seem a little unreal.
Back in the forest, we noticed another small trail leading off to the south west of the cave area. When it eventually opened up to the sky, we found a large lake full of floating trees, caught against the bank as the lake spills and narrows into the canyon. Whether cast-offs from the logging industry or fallen from the steep cliffs during storms, I am not sure. But seeing so many of them, sunbleached and crowding the lake, was fascinating. The lake felt huge, but an aerial view of Huson Lake shows the trees fill just a small northern pocket of it.
I don’t know that I’ve yet to experience a mediocre natural spot on this island, but among the extraordinary, this one definitely stands out.